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Bodylift to a Jimny

Whel all these are made in the apropriate store, we were ready for the next 5,6 milimeters of hight (some more were gained from the ES1000 Procomp absorbers and mud springs with add-ons). The action goes like this:

First of all remove the possitive (+) plug from the batery. Unsrew all eight screws tha hold the cabin on chassis. Remove the steering wheel bar and the plastic on the air intake box. Loosen themetallic tubes of the braking system that holds on the chassis. Take off the front and rear bumpers, the head lights and the plastic that surrounds the gear lever (in the cabin) and the metallic basis under it, as well.

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 7

Next, with the help of two jacks and two wooden blocks (see Pic. 7, 8), we tried to carefully lift the whole right side of the cabin, apart from chassis. We lifted this side as much as it was required to fit in the four blocks of teflon. Blocks shown in Pic 1 were placed in points 1, 2, 4 of Pic 11 and blocks shown in Pic 2 were placed in point 3. We paid attention on not to hurt the tube for filling the fuel tank, not to hurt the ABS cables and the metallic tubes of the brakes that are attatched to this side of the chassis. This, of course wasn't so easy, because as we were lifting higher the cabin, the (longer) springs were still able to lift the chassis, make the jacks to come to their end (Pic. 7). To overcome this small problem, we tied the chassis to the ground. Yes, we did it ;) (see Pic. 8 & 9). After we finished the right side, we continued to left. I mention the use of the original rubber pads, as shown in Pic. 10. So, after we finished placing the teflon blocks (Drw./Pic. 1 & 2) under the cabin, we replaced the old bolts with we newly made ones (Drw./Pic. 3, 4 & 5). Note the custom made screws of Pic 5, they were placed under the head lights, at the front of the car.

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 8

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 9

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 10

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 11

Well, enough with the teflon blocks, next comes the steering wheel bar. We had to increase the length of it, as by lifting the cabin, the distance between it and the power pump of steering was increased, too. To do so, we had to cut the cross joint of it and replace the cylinders shown in Pic. 12, with the new made ones of Drw./Pic. 6. You can see it finished in Pic. 13.

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 12

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 13

Bumpers. It is very natural that they don't fit like they used to, anymore. We didn't hesitate to cut whatever was standing as an obsticle. Look at Pics 14 & 15.

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 14

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 15

Some of the last things we did to finish the bodylifting of my Jimny, were in the interor of the cabin. Specificly to the gear shifting and 4H - 4L levers. For the front lever, we had to remove the front seats, raise the carpet, then take off the handle and the plastic that surrounds the lever. Under this plastic, there is a rubber which is fitted to the cabin by a metallic frame. We removed this and reinstalled it, but this time we turned the up side down and the front back (see Pic. 16). This was done to protect the gearbox from mud, moisture, water and whatever comes in everyones car. For the rear lever now, we had to cut a small piece of the cabin, so it is free to move now to the 4L position (see Pic 17). It would be nice to weld a small add-on on top of it, but I haven't finished that yet.

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 16

Jimny bodylift

Pic. 17

So, these were the steps we followed, to accomplish the body lift of my Jimny, succesfully I'd say, as for a year and a half now, there was no problem.

Jimny bodyliftJimny bodylift

Thank you for the time you spend here,

John

Note: The above actions were done by me and Dimitris, on my own vehicle and the blame is mine, if anything goes wrong. For anyone who follows these steps on his own car, he by himself sould be considered as responsible for his own acts ;)



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